| My basement office has no built-in heating system, so I rely on an electric fan-heater. In an effort to reduce electricity costs for the heater, I thought I'd "steal" some of the heat from the furnace's hot copper piping on the other side of the basement wall. I selected a four-foot section of vertical 1-1/8" pipe that has up to 180-degree water in it. The rest of the story is in pictures: |
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Here's the pipe, covered in hose-clamped 1"x2" copper flashing for improved heat transfer. I have test-fitted a sample of the flexible dryer duct tubing that I planned to use to cover the pipe and fins.
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Close-up of the fins and hose clamps. I installed 44 fins altogether, which added about 1" x 1.5" of extra surface area per side, each. Counting both sides of the 0.020" thick fins, this adds 132 sq. in. to the copper pipe's area. The 22 stainless steel hose clamps also added about 11 sq. in. of area. The enclosed area of the pipe itself is 32 inches long, and with a diameter of 1.125" makes a surface area of 112 sq. in. So the total area of metal-to-air is 255 sq. in.
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The nominal 60/90 cfm fan I use to move the air, mounted to a bracket and adorned with a motto.
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I needed to keep the air from flowing *into* the wall cavity, so I made a short bridge of ducting. All ducting used in this project has a minimum interior diameter of about 3.5 inches. It's very corregated, so there must be a substantial amount of turbulence and drag as a result. I don't know what effect this has on the performance of the completed system. Anybody? Also, how can I measure the actual airflow of this system?
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I made a gasket of aluminized bubble-wrap insulating material.
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Here I have partially installed the ducting. I used wire cutters to sever the spring-steel spiral that gives the duct its rigidity so that I could wrap the duct around the copper pipe and fins. Fortunately, the aluminum wrapping kept the tube from collapsing.
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Completed. I sealed the small remaining spaces and the cut seam with high-temp (max: 400 degrees) silicone adhesive from Devcon, which worked well.
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| Close-up showing fan and gaskets. It's switchable from off-60-90 cfm airflow. |
After the nasty fumes from the silicone subsided, I turned it on, and it worked! I've installed an indoor/outdoor thermometer at the intake and exhaust "ports" in my office, and at furnace "idle", there is usually a 15-degree gain. When the furnace is on, the temp gain can be over 30 degrees! :-) It doesn't really raise the overall temp in my 11 x 16 x 7.5-foot office space, but the flow of heated air at me *does* make me more comfortable, and I'm able to turn off the fan-heater for longer periods. Success! Many thanks for technical advice from Jim Phelan, Steve Hunter, Marc Rosenbaum, and Wayne Junier! Comments? Please use the email link at my business site. |